The Kataragama Festival

One of the Solosmastana [16 places visit by Lord Buddha in Sri Lanka], Kataragama is a popular religious pilgrimage site in the country that is frequented by Hindus, Buddhists, Veddas  [an indigenous people of Sri Lanka ] and Muslims alike. The complex that is on the banks of the Menik Ganga [river of gems] holds the Kataragama Devalaya [a Hindu shrine dedicated to God Kataragama, also known as Skanda-Murukan], the Kiri Vehera [an ancient Buddhist Stupa], a Mosque and several other smaller temples and shrines.

It is believed that God Kataragama lived in the mountain jungles near the Menik Ganga with his Indian wife, Thevani Amma and his Sri Lankan wife Valli Amma. King Dutugemunu visited the deity Kataragama here after his victory against Elara the Chola invader to fulfil his vow by building a shrine dedicated to the deity. Kataragama Deviyo was said to have shot a golden arrow from his home at the peak of the mountain and to have told the King to build the shrine in the location where the arrow had fallen. This is where the Kataragama Devalaya is today. Devotees believe that God Kataragama is a very powerful deity and they worship him to help them overcome their personal problems or for success in business enterprises.

 

The fruits that are offered in trays to the Diety

The entrance to the Kataragama Devalaya

The facade of the Devalaya

 

The Kataragama Festival which usually starts 10 days prior to the full moon day falling in the month of July ends with a final perahera [parade] on that full moon day. This year however, it was delayed by a month for auspicious reasons. Pilgrims flock from all over the country and stand for hours to see this colourful festival take place. The ‘Pada Yatra’ [foot pilgrimage] pilgrims start walking [the entire way] from the Nallur Kovil in Jaffna about two months prior to the start of the Festival, going from one sacred site to another  making their way to the Kataragama Devalaya in the South, growing in size, chanting ‘Haro Hara’ and other ancient praises to strengthen their will.

Although I have been visiting Kataragama frequently all my life, I had never witnessed the festival take place until now. We made our way from Tissamaharama to Kataragama at dusk on Wednesday the 7^th of August dressed in white, to be a part of the first perahera of the season. The mahouts were taking the elephants that were going to be a part of the parade to the Kiri Vehera at the same time we were there. The elephants circled the stupa and then bowed down to it before exiting. We then walked alongside the elephants as they went towards the Kataragama Devalaya. They each in turn walked to the front of the shrine and bowed down.

 

A lady selling flowers on the way to the Kiri Vehera

The Tusker leaving the Kiri Vehera after worship

 

In the Perahera, the ‘Yantra’, a spiritual drawing of the Kataragama Deity’s power is taken on the back of a grand Tusker to Valli Amma’s shrine about 300 metres away. It is kept there for a quarter of an hour before it is returned on the back of the same tusker to the Kataragama Deity’s shrine. This parade occurs every night for 10 days. On the last day, it is kept overnight at Valli Amma’s Shrine to resemble their wedding night. It takes about an hour to dress the tusker in sequined clothes and to prepare the housing in which the Yantra is carried. Devotees then cover drape the Tusker in garlands of fresh flowers and spray it with scented water.

Families lighting pahanas before the perahera starts

The crowd gathered to witness the dressing of the Tusker

The Tusker being dressed

Devotees waiting to drape the flower garlands on the Tusker

  

The Perahera starts with the ‘Kasa-Karayo’ [whip-men] who make whipping sounds with their thick chord whips to signal to the onlookers that the parade is approaching. They are followed by the fire dancers who spin around various batons and loops lit on fire while dancing. Next come two sets of Hewisi Bands playing traditional beats and the swami’s of the Pada Yatra Pilgrims. They are then followed by dancers that represent different parts of the country. There were Kandian dancers, Hill Country dancers, Southern dancers, Kavadi dancers and my personal favourite the peacock dancers. The peacock is the transport and the symbol of the Kataragama Deity and this dance depicts the dance of a peacock.

The perahera pathway lit up

One of the Whip-men

The fire dancers

A drummer

One of the Hewisi Bands

The Pada Yatra Swamis

 

A peacock dancer

 

Finally, after another Kandian Hewisi band and more Kandian dancers is the chief of the Vedda Tribe. The Veddas are said to be angry with the Kataragama Deity for wanting to take Valli Amma, one of their own, away to India. Because of this, the Vedda Chief walks backwards, facing the Tusker and pointing his bow and arrow at the Yantra. But then the Veddas respected him for choosing to stay instead and because of this, the Chief worships the Yantra from time to time during the perahera. The Perahera then ends with a pooja [religious ceremony] at the Devalaya.

The Vedda Chief worshiping the Yantra

The Yantra being carried on the back of the decorated Tusker

Whether you are a religious person or not, this spectacularly colourful parade full of religion, culture and history is something you should definitely witness if you visit Sri Lanka during this time of year.