One of the Solosmastana [16 places visit by Lord Buddha in Sri Lanka], Kataragama
is a popular religious pilgrimage site in the country that is frequented by
Hindus, Buddhists, Veddas [an indigenous people of Sri Lanka ] and
Muslims alike. The complex that is on the banks of the Menik Ganga [river of gems] holds the Kataragama Devalaya [a
Hindu shrine dedicated to God Kataragama, also known as Skanda-Murukan], the Kiri Vehera [an ancient Buddhist Stupa],
a Mosque and several other smaller temples and shrines.
It is believed that God Kataragama lived in
the mountain jungles near the Menik Ganga with his Indian wife, Thevani Amma
and his Sri Lankan wife Valli Amma. King Dutugemunu visited the deity
Kataragama here after his victory against Elara the Chola invader to fulfil his
vow by building a shrine dedicated to the deity. Kataragama Deviyo was said to
have shot a golden arrow from his home at the peak of the mountain and to have told
the King to build the shrine in the location where the arrow had fallen. This
is where the Kataragama Devalaya is today. Devotees believe that God Kataragama
is a very powerful deity and they worship him to help them overcome their
personal problems or for success in business enterprises.
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The fruits that are offered in trays to the Diety |
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The entrance to the Kataragama Devalaya |
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The facade of the Devalaya |
The Kataragama Festival which usually starts
10 days prior to the full moon day falling in the month of July ends with a
final perahera [parade] on that full
moon day. This year however, it was delayed by a month for auspicious reasons. Pilgrims
flock from all over the country and stand for hours to see this colourful festival
take place. The ‘Pada Yatra’ [foot
pilgrimage] pilgrims start walking [the entire way] from the Nallur Kovil in Jaffna about two months prior
to the start of the Festival, going from one sacred site to another making their way to the Kataragama Devalaya in the South, growing in size, chanting ‘Haro Hara’ and other ancient praises to strengthen
their will.
Although I have been visiting Kataragama frequently
all my life, I had never witnessed the festival take place until now. We made
our way from Tissamaharama to Kataragama at dusk on Wednesday the 7th
of August dressed in white, to be a part of the first perahera of the season. The mahouts were taking the elephants that
were going to be a part of the parade to the Kiri Vehera at the same time we were there. The elephants circled
the stupa and then bowed down to it before exiting. We then walked alongside
the elephants as they went towards the Kataragama
Devalaya. They each in turn walked to the front of the shrine and bowed
down.
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A lady selling flowers on the way to the Kiri Vehera |
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The Tusker leaving the Kiri Vehera after worship |
In the Perahera, the ‘Yantra’, a spiritual drawing of the Kataragama Deity’s power is taken
on the back of a grand Tusker to Valli Amma’s shrine about 300 metres away. It
is kept there for a quarter of an hour before it is returned on the back of the
same tusker to the Kataragama Deity’s shrine. This parade occurs every night
for 10 days. On the last day, it is kept overnight at Valli Amma’s Shrine to
resemble their wedding night. It takes about an hour to dress the tusker in sequined
clothes and to prepare the housing in which the Yantra is carried. Devotees
then cover drape the Tusker in garlands of fresh flowers and spray it with
scented water.
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Families lighting pahanas before the perahera starts |
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The crowd gathered to witness the dressing of the Tusker |
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The Tusker being dressed |
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Devotees waiting to drape the flower garlands on the Tusker |
The Perahera starts with the ‘Kasa-Karayo’ [whip-men] who make whipping
sounds with their thick chord whips to signal to the onlookers that the parade
is approaching. They are followed by the fire dancers who spin around various batons
and loops lit on fire while dancing. Next come two sets of Hewisi Bands playing traditional beats and the swami’s of the Pada
Yatra Pilgrims. They are then followed by dancers that represent different
parts of the country. There were Kandian dancers, Hill Country dancers,
Southern dancers, Kavadi dancers and my personal favourite the peacock dancers.
The peacock is the transport and the symbol of the Kataragama Deity and this
dance depicts the dance of a peacock.
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The perahera pathway lit up |
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One of the Whip-men |
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The fire dancers |
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A drummer |
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One of the Hewisi Bands |
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The Pada Yatra Swamis |
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A peacock dancer |
Finally, after another Kandian Hewisi band and more Kandian dancers is
the chief of the Vedda Tribe. The Veddas are said to be angry with the
Kataragama Deity for wanting to take Valli Amma, one of their own, away to
India. Because of this, the Vedda Chief walks backwards, facing the Tusker and
pointing his bow and arrow at the Yantra. But then the Veddas respected him for choosing to stay instead and because of
this, the Chief worships the Yantra from time to time during the perahera. The Perahera then ends with a pooja
[religious ceremony] at the Devalaya.
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The Vedda Chief worshiping the Yantra |
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The Yantra being carried on the back of the decorated Tusker |
Whether you are a religious person or not,
this spectacularly colourful parade full of religion, culture and history is
something you should definitely witness if you visit Sri Lanka during this
time of year.
තරගම යන අතරතුර ඔබගේ ගමන් වෙහෙස නිවාගන්න ,එන්න අපගේ සොදුරු ගිමන්හලට. පිරිපහදු කල වතුර ටිකක් අරගෙන යන්න. http://www.aquarichwatershop.com
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