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The Vesak Festival

Vesak Poya falls on the full moon day in May and commemorates the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha. The decision to celebrate Vesak was made at the first conference of the World Fellowship of Buddhists held in Sri Lanka in 1950.

On Vesak day, devotees observe sil [the 5 or 8 precepts of Buddhism] at their neighborhood temples.

Buddhists also celebrate by lighting Vesak Laterns. When walking around the buzzing cities and towns on this day, you are bound to come across a lot of colourful and creative lanterns as well as bright Pandols that tell stories from Buddha’s life and teach religious lessons.

Vesak Buckets

The crowds to see the decorations for Vesak

The colourful lanterns...

Lanterns hanging over the crowded streets...

Another interesting feature of Vesak Poya are the Dansal. These are stalls that are found all over the cities and towns who offer food and/or drink to passersby for free.  They usually offer fruit juices, herbal teas, rice and curry, chick peas, ice cream and more…

Our dansal dinner...

If you’re in Sri Lanka during this time, walking around these decorated areas and indulging in food from dansal as well as street food is far better than just driving by!

Enjoying some street food...!

'Isso Wadey' My favourite type of Sri Lankan street food!

Saravita - A popular sweet snack...

Fresh fruit juices...

A variety of street food

More street food!

Tips for taking on Adam’s Peak

Adam’s Peak, also known as Sri Pada or Samanala Kanda [Butterfly mountain] is a tall mountain in the hill country in Sri Lanka. The mountain is called Sri Pada [sacred footprint] because there is a shape of a 5 ft footprint at the summit. Buddhists believe that it is the footprint of Lord Buddha, Hindu’s believe that it is the footprint of God Shiva and Christians and Islamists believe that it is that of Adam. There is a shrine at the summit to the Buddhist Deity ‘Saman’, who is charged with protecting the mountain.

Every year, thousands of devotees of all ages, sizes and physical capabilities climb to the top on foot to worship the footprint during the season, which starts on the full moon poya day in December and ends on the full moon ‘wesak’ poya day in May. It is possible to climb the mountain during the off season as well, but it is slightly more difficult due to rain, strong winds and mist. Also, the pathway is only lit up during the season time.

This was my first time climbing Adam’s Peak, which is unusual for me, having traveled all around Sri Lanka since I was a kid. It was the one place that I hadn’t got a chance to see yet. I’ve been talking about going for the last two years and finally, I added it to this year’s list of New Year’s resolutions! Here are a few tips from my experience to help you with your Adam’s Peak Adventure!

Tip 1 – DO NOT GO ON WEEKENDS!!!

Don’t do it, just don’t! Before we went, everyone told us not to go on a weekend, especially Saturdays because of the crowd. But we went anyway. We were informed that it would take 7 hours to climb to the top with a crowd. So we timed it and started the ascent at 11 PM so that we would make it to the summit to see the sunrise at 6 AM. But, the particular Saturday that we chose, was so overcrowded that it took us 10 and a half hours!!!! The last 500 meters took us about 4 hours. We were squashed into a stagnant crowd and ascended one step every 10-15 minutes. The last bit was more of a mental challenge than physical! So the best time to go is during the season, but on a weekday.

The crazy crowd!

Tip 2 – The Route

There are 6 trails to climb the mountain. The Hatton-Nallathanniya trail is around 5 KMs shorter than the others, but it is also the steepest, with over 5000 steps. It is also the most crowded route. The second most popular is the Ratnapura-Palabaddala trail.

 

The trails...

Tip 3 – Take a Jacket

It gets quite chilly at Adam’s Peak, especially at the summit, so yoga pants, a tshirt and a jacket/hoddie is the best combination.

Tip 4 – You have to see the sunrise!

Talk to the locals in the area and find out what time is best for you to start the climb on that day. We planned for 7 and it took us 10.5, so we weren’t at the summit for sunrise, but we were lucky enough to get a good view of it from where we were.

Worth it for this view!

Just before sunrise!

There isnt anything like it!

Tip 5 – Try the Beli Mal Tea

All along the way there are rest stops selling refreshments. You should have some Beli Mal Tea with a piece of hakuru [jaggery]. It’s a refreshing warm drink made from the bael flower. Promise me you’ll try it?!

Time for a break

A sign that says 'Lets drink Beli mal'

Tip 6 - Partake in the rituals

There are several rituals that the devotees undertake while going up. There’s no harm in joining them and getting the most out of your Adam’s Peak experience. Join them in the religious kavi [poems] and chants, light incense sticks and thread a needle through a pack of herbs at the ‘Indikatu pahana’ [Needle lamp] and string it along the pathway up. This was done in the olden days to show the path to the top so that no one would get lost. Similar to Hansel leaving a trail of breadcrumbs! You should also ring the bell at the summit. The number of times you ring the bell signifies how many times you’ve climbed Adam’s Peak. While we were there, one lady rang it 12 times!

Light incense sticks 

Threading the needing through the bag of herbs

...And string it along the path.

Ringing the bell at the summit

Tip 7 – Power through

You’re going to want to turn back at some point. I know I did. The last 500 meters was the most challenging, and I thought about quitting and turning back every 5 minutes. But you shouldn’t!  I powered through and I’m so glad I did. I felt accomplished and I was lucky enough to watch the sunrise…

Tip 8 – You can do it!

If you think you’re too old or unfit to climb Adam’s Peak, you’re wrong. If I can do it, and if devotees well over the age of 70 can do it, then so can you. It’s not a race. You could take your time, take breaks and do it at your own pace. It is not an impossible thing to do if you are willing!

Do it for this view!

Tip 9 – Get a foot massage on the way down!

One the way down, you could get a Siddhalepa herbal foot massage. It is perfect because at this point your legs will feel like blubber and your feet would be so tired after hours of going up and walking down.  

Colombo: An honest review of the things to see and do in Colombo

Colombo is a city where there’s so much and yet so little to do… So to help you navigate through what you should do while you’re in Colombo, I’ve compiled a list of popular tourist attractions and reviewed them with my honest opinion.

Dutch Museum

This somewhat lesser known attraction in the heart of Pettah is what used to be a large two storied house built in the 17th century by Thomas Van Rhee, The Dutch Governor of Sri Lanka from 1692- 1697. It is now a museum that holds over 3000 artifacts from when the country was under the Dutch rule. After you get over the fact that such a large building exists on a crowded street in Pettah squashed between the tiny shops, you start to appreciate the beauty of its architecture and the artifacts that are held within. What impressed me the most was the old well that’s in the corner of the courtyard!

The trade route - right at the entrance

Colombo National Museum

The architecture of the building is pretty impressive and there’s a cool skeleton of a blue whale suspended from the ceiling, but other than that, it’s not very exciting. Not really worth a visit in my opinion… maybe just a drive by.

Zoo

The National Zoological Gardens of Sri Lanka, also known as the Dehiwala Zoo is not really worth a visit or even a drive by!

Old Parliament Building, Town Hall Building, Cargills Department Store, Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque

All of these are interesting buildings to drive by!

The Cargills Building

The Town Hall Building

The Old Parliament Building

Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque

Gangaramaya Temple, Seema Malaka Temple and the Beira lake

These three are all very close to each other and are great places for photography. The two temples are very touristy though. So if what you’re looking for is to experience what a real Buddhist temple is like, look for a local area temple. My neighborhood temple, Balapokuna is lovely and peaceful in the evenings. I’d recommend going on a paddle-swan-boat on the Beira Lake to anyone though. It is a lot of fun!

Buddha Statues inside the Gangaramaya Temple

The Seema Malaka Temple

The Beira Lake

Viharamahadevi Park

This large Park opposite the Town Hall Building and next to the Museum is a scenic place to take a casual stroll or even for a work out in the evenings.

One side of Viharamahadevi Park

Galle Face Green, Galle Buck Lighthouse and Sambodhi Chaithya

This is a must-do in my opinion, not during the day though because of the heat. The best time to go is in the early evening to watch the sunset and then stick around for all kinds of street food. Be warned though, it’s not for the ‘weak-tummied’. Weekends and public holidays are better because there’s a crowd of people flying kites and playing games on the green.

Galle Face Green

Towards the North of Galle Face Green, close to the Kingsbury Hotel is the Galle Buck Lighthouse. It’s a quiet spot to watch the sunset from.

The Galle Buck Lighthouse

Wander a little further down the road and you’ll see the Sambodhi Chaithya which is a temple built above the road on two arches. Climb 11 levels and 300 steps and you come to the entrance of the charming temple and get a great view of Colombo city.

The Sambodhi Chaithya

St. lucia’s cathedral

One of the most beautiful cathedrals in Sri Lanka, St. Lucia’s is definitely worth 

a visit.

Wolvendaal church

A masterpiece of Dutch architecture, Wolvendaal Church should be added to your list of places to visit in Colombo. With its thick walls and high arched ceiling, this building from 1757 was built to last and is full of history.

The organ inside Wolvendall Church

Independence square

This too would have fallen into the ‘drive by’ category a few years back. However now, the grounds around Independence Square have been developed into a park where many healthy people exercise in the evenings. There’s a museum under the building that’s worth checking out as well.

Sri Kailawasanthan Swami Devasthanam Kovil

This Hindu Kovil is an ideal place to soak in some culture and marvel at the sculptures as well as the rituals.

The Greatest Sri Lankan Love Stories in History

Because Valentine’s Day is around the corner, I thought that it would be appropriate to add a little cheesy romance to this month’s post! Sri Lanka’s history is littered with stories that revolve around love and romance. Wars have been waged, babies have been exchanged, thrones have been sacrificed and secret tunnels have been built in the name of love.

1) Saliya and Ashokamala

The Isurumuni Lovers

Perhaps the most famous of all of Sri Lanka’s love stories is the one of Ashokamala and Saliya. Prince Saliya, the only son of the famous King Dutugemunu, first saw the beautiful Ashokamala picking flowers from an Ashoka tree by the Tissavewa reservoir and they fell in love at first sight despite the fact that Ashokamala was from a lower caste; a relationship that was punishable by death.

When the King heard the news of their relationship, he was not pleased and banished Prince Saliya from Anuradhapura as he chose to give up the throne and his entire inheritance for love.

In the Mahawansa, the ‘great chronicle’, a historical book written in the Pali language about the Kings of Sri Lanka, it says "In the time of king Dutugemunu, the people were rejoiced. He had a son named Saliya who was virtuous and he indulged in a life with constant meritorious deeds. He had an affair with a low caste girl who had been connected with him in his past lives. She had enchanting beauty and Saliya liking her, forgot the kingdom…….".

A 6^th Century Gupta Style stone carving of Saliya and Ashokamala called the ‘Isurumuni Pem –Yuwela’ (Isurumuni Lovers), a representation of their eternal love that can be found in the Isurumuniya Temple near the Tissa Weva Reservoir.

2) Rama and Sita

The Sita Amman Kovil in Sita Eliya

This is technically a story with its roots in India, but it made the list because Sri Lanka played a role in their love story. Rama, the eldest son of King Dasharatha and Queen Kaushalya was brave and noble. He once helped an Ascetic and in return, the Ascetic took Rama with him to Mithila in India to visit King Janaka who was said to have a magic bow which was given to his ancestor’s by God Shiva.

Sita was one of King Janaka’s daughters. She was said to have sprung out of the ground in a field like a gift from God, so he decided to give her in marriage to a worthy Prince who was able to bend the magic bow. Many men tried to bend it but none were able to until Rama. He lifted the bow and strung it so tight that not only did it bend, it broke in two. Seeing this, King Janaka saw Rama as a son of the Gods who was worthy of Sita and they were soon married.

King Dasharatha’s 2^nd wife, Queen Kaikeyi was not pleased with Rama being the heir to the throne and instead wanted her son Bharatha, Rama’s half-brother, to be King. She then was able to convince the King to make Bharatha his heir and banish Rama to exile in the jungles for 14 years. 

When Rama explained to Sita that he has to leave as it was his father’s wish, she replied saying “I belong to you and nobody can part us, if you have to go to the jungle, I will also go, I shall fear nothing when I am with you”. Rama’s other brother Lakshmana too followed them into exile.

In their 10^th year of exile, a Rakshasi [female demon] fell in love with Rama and wanted him to leave Sita for her. When Rama refused, she retaliated by trying to capture Sita but Lakshmana was able to save her. Furious, the Rakshasi then called upon her brother Ravana who ruled Sri Lanka to avenge her. When she spoke of Sita’s beauty, Ravana wanted to possess her so he devised a clever plan and lured her away from Rama and Lakshmana so that he could kidnap her and take her back to Lanka in his air chariot.

Sita was kept in the place where the Sita Amman Kovil stands today, close to Nuwara Eliya in Sri Lanka. Ravana showed Sita his riches and tried to woo her in many ways to try and convince her to be his Queen, but she refused because her heart belonged to Rama.

Rama, with the help of the Hanuman, the Monkey God and Lakshmana were able to defeat Ravana and rescue Sita from his captivity. They then returned to Ayodhya and ruled the Kingdom as King and Queen.

3) Kataragama Deity and Valli Amma

Gog Murugan saving Valli Amma from the Elephant

Another epic love story was the one of Valli Amma, the Princess of the Vedda mountain tribe and the Kataragama deity, God Murugan [the mountain God].  Valli which translates to ‘sweet potato’ got her name because she was found on a patch of Yam in the jungle. From a very young age she was fascinated by the ‘Kanda Yaka’ or the hunter God of the mountain.

The God of the mountain was very attracted to Valli as well and wanted to come down and meet her in human form. But she refused his advancements. He then asked his brother the Elephant God Ganesha to turn into an elephant and scare her so that he could save her and win her love. She then found out that it was God Kataragama and they fell in love and were married.

4) Unmada Chitra and Deegha Gamini

Deegha Gamini rescuing Unmada Chithra

Unmada Chitra was said to have been so beautiful that she was able to overwhelm people with maddening desire at the mere sight of her. She was the daughter of King Panduvasudeva and Queen Baddhakachchana. Because of a prophesy that stated that her son would kill 9 of her 10 brothers, she was kept in a circular room in a tower with a door that lead to the King’s room and no windows and was heavily guarded day and night.

Prince Deegha Gamini, having heard of Unmada Chitra’s attractive features, wanted to scale the tower and see her. But first, he impressed King Panduvasudeva and was made the Guardian of the Royal Palace. He then was able to climb up to the tower with the help of a mechanical ladder and meet the Princess. They then fell in love.

When the King found out about their relationship, he was angry, but did not impose any harm on them. Instead, he ordered that if they have a son, that the baby should be killed. She then gave birth to a son and named him Pandukabhya, but in order to protect him, she exchanged him with the baby girl of a villager sworn to secrecy.

In later years, when Pandukabhaya found out about his real mother and his right to the throne, as the prophecy stated, he waged war and killed 9 out of his 10 uncles and took his place as King.

5) Lovinia and Sir Thomas Maitland

A painting of Lovina and Sri Thoman Maitland

This is by far my favourite love story in Sri Lankan history. Sir Thomas Maitland was the British Governor in Ceylon in the early 1800s. Upon arrival in Sri Lanka, he built a grand country mansion for himself in a town called Galkissa close to the capital Colombo, the now Mount Lavinia Hotel.

It was here that he first saw Lovina Aponsuwa, a half Portugese, half Sinhalese dancer in a dancing troupe that entertained guests at his Mansion’s events. He fell in love with her beauty and grace and as a token of his affection, named his Mansion ‘Mount Lavinia’ after her.

Before long, they were engaged in a secret romance, hidden from the British Society in Colombo because she was from a low caste and was not a suitable partner for the Governor in the eyes of society. The Governor even built and underground tunnel that connected his Mansion with the mouth of an unused well near where Lovina lived so that they could be together in secret. The Mount Lavinia Mansion and the tunnel still exist today, keeping the memory of their great love alive forever.

Sri Lanka is an ideal backdrop for an epic romance… Get in touch for advice on romantic holidays and cozy honeymoons in Sri Lanka so that you could add to its rich history of love.

The Best Beaches in Sri Lanka

There’s only so long a person can go without enjoying some well-earned R&R on the beach…! ‘What is the best beach in Sri Lanka?’ is a frequently asked question from most of my clients. To answer that question, in a tropical island surrounded by miles of amazing beaches, there is no one-best-beach. It depends on the season and what you want from your beach holiday.

For Surfers

If catching a wave is all that you’re interested in, the beach for you is Arugambay, one of the best surf spots in the world. The surfing season is from April to October.

For Divers

From November to April, the West Coast is what’s ideal for diving enthusiasts and Colombo is the best spot on the West Coast with over 10 wrecks and several picturesque reefs. From May to October however, the dives are best on the East Coast in Passikudah.

  

Photo credit to Island Scuba...

For Snorkeling

During the West Coast beach season, Hikkaduwa is best for snorkelling and Nilaveli Beach on the East Coast is best during the East Coast Beach season.

For Whale and Dolphin Watching

Depending on the wind and the waves, November to April is the best season to see Blue Whales, Spinner Dolphins, Sperm whales and sometimes even Killer Whales in Sri Lanka. Mirrissa on the South Coast and Kalpitiya on the West Coast are the best places to experience this.

For active days and lively nights

Hikkaduwa and Unawatuna are the best if action is what you’re looking for. There’s the beach, plenty of water sport options and many restaurants and bars along the beach who most often host beach parties at night.  

Unawatuna Beach

Quiet Beaches

If you want to avoid the crowds and spend your time on a deserted beach, I’d recommend Thalpe… There are some lovely beach bungalows in Thalpe and it is much more peaceful when compared to busy beaches like Unawatuna.

Calm Beaches

In my experience, Passikudah Bay beach during its season is the most calm… It’s almost like a shallow salty swimming pool with no waves and is ideal for people who are not too confident in the sea.

Whatever you’re into, it seems like Sri Lanka has a beach that you’ll love…!

Want to find out more about beaches in Sri Lanka? Email me on gbot@mylankandream.com!